Vehicles that are equipped with a clutch and manual transmission require more attention than a vehicle that has an automatic transmission. As the vehicle ages so does the clutch system. The clutch is designed to engage the transmission to the engine and also to release power from the engine to slow down the input shaft on a transmission to switch gears.
A clutch pedal is made for the driver to release the clutch and engage the clutch. Clutch pedals that go from the rest position to full engagement, but stay on the floor and don't spring back up, indicate a problem. There are four components that can cause the clutch pedal go all the way to the floor :. Warning : Do not attempt to start the engine and drive the vehicle with the clutch pedal stuck all the way to the floor.
You could damage the clutch, the clutch fork, or the transmission. Step 1: Park your vehicle on a flat, hard surface.
Make sure that the transmission is in park for automatics or in first gear for manuals. Step 2: Place wheel chocks around the rear tires that will be remaining on the ground. Engage the parking brake to the lock the rear tires from moving. Step 3: Raise the vehicle. Using a floor jack that is recommended for the weight of the vehicle, lift under the vehicle at its specified jacking points until the wheels are completely off the ground.
Step 4: Place the jack stands.
The jack stands should go under the jacking point locations. Then lower the vehicle onto the jack stands. For most modern cars, the jacking points for jack stands will be on the pinch weld just under the doors along the bottom of the car. Step 1: Put on your safety glasses, grab your flashlight, and grab your creeper. Go under the vehicle and check the condition of the clutch cable or hydraulic lines. Make sure that the cable is tight. If you have a hydraulic line, make sure that there are no leaks.
How to Troubleshoot a Clutch Pedal Sticking to the Floor
Step 2: Check the slave cylinder if your vehicle has a hydraulic clutch pedal. Make sure that the slave cylinder is not leaking. Step 3: Remove the inspection cover, if there is any, to the bell housing of the transmission.
Pedal hits the floor and will no come back up on it's own. I'm using a mighty vac and can not get fluid from the reservoir to the pump. I'm at 22 inch pounds of vacuum.
Cant bleed my clutch
Any Ideas? Joined Nov 8, I'm not sure whether or not any of this information will help you, but hopefully it does:. I got it but a word of warning follows. After I bled my brakes the res. It was a little below min. When I put the vacuum pump on the bleed screw and cracked it open it sucked the fluid below the fill nipple and cavitated the slave cylinder. The nipple for the slave cylinder is just below the min level on the res. That is the dumbest sh! If you get a little too low on brake fluid guess what no or a faulty clutch.
It was my fault I didn't properly check the level. I just dont understand why Ford put that fill nipple so high on the res. Every other one I've seen it's toward the bottom or the res.
Joined Dec 21, SIstomper said:. SC-Compact said:. BMW does the same thing. The reasoning is you should not lose brake fluid. Join the discussion. Continue with Facebook. Continue with Google. Recommended Reading. Read More. Focus ST Maintenance. Okay so I found out the reason for my last post, PCM was not connected fully because my red lever to clip it down was broken.
Silly mistake that made me lose two whole weeks of sleep lol. Anyways no codes present now, and no service engine now on display.
So good!If you have changed the clutch line, clutch master cylinder or clutch slave cylinder in your Ford truck, then chances are you have introduced air into the clutch system. Air in the clutch system causes hard shifting or no ability to shift gears because the air in the fluid will compress and the clutch won't disengage.Clutch Fluid Change FAST! (Gravity Bleed Method)
To ensure that all the transmission components work together properly, bleed the clutch. Fortunately, bleeding the clutch is simple and is similar to bleeding your brakes. Jack up the Ford truck and place on jack stands. Ford trucks are usually high enough off the ground for you to get under them to bleed the clutch, but some trucks such as the Ford Ranger may not have enough ground clearance and will require jacking.
Push down on the clutch pedal, and while pushing down count 1, 2 and 3, and on 3 verbally say "holding. The helper attaches a clear rubber tube to the clutch slave cylinder bleeder and uses an 8-mm wrench to open it when the clutch pedal is being depressed. Start opening the bleeder at count 1 and close shortly after the clutch pedal is fully depressed.
Repeat steps two and three until you don't see any bubbles of air going through the clear rubber hose. At that point you should feel the clutch pedal to be a little harder to press down than before. Lower the Ford truck to the ground and test the clutch system for proper operation. If the clutch remains "mushy" or "soft," then you may have to repeat the entire process again until all the air has exited the system.
This article was written by the It Still Works team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information. To submit your questions or ideas, or to simply learn more about It Still Works, contact us. Step 1 Jack up the Ford truck and place on jack stands. Step 2 Push down on the clutch pedal, and while pushing down count 1, 2 and 3, and on 3 verbally say "holding.
Step 3 The helper attaches a clear rubber tube to the clutch slave cylinder bleeder and uses an 8-mm wrench to open it when the clutch pedal is being depressed. Step 4 Repeat steps two and three until you don't see any bubbles of air going through the clear rubber hose. Tip You can purchase a one-way bleeder that you can install on the clutch slave cylinder. The one-way bleeder acts like a check valve and will only allow air out.
What this means is that you can bleed the clutch by yourself without fear of getting air in the system. Warning Wear safety glasses when bleeding the clutch. Rehkopf; About the Author This article was written by the It Still Works team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information.The hydraulic clutch assembly in your Ford Focus should not require bleeding unless the system has been opened for repair.
The clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder come as a complete assembly so overhauling the hydraulic system is not an option. It is recommended that the brake system be bled first if required, since the brake system and the clutch use a common fluid reservoir and the brake system has more volume in its cylinders.
Remove the rubber air duct that connects the throttle body to the air filter housing using a screwdriver to loosen the hose clamps before twisting and pulling the hose. Locate the bleeder screw, found on the line between the clutch master cylinder and the clutch slave cylinder, and unscrew the dust cap covering it. Top off the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. Instruct a helper to place his foot under the clutch pedal to prevent bottoming the clutch master cylinder piston in its bore.
Slip an 8 mm wrench into the bleeder screw and momentarily open and then close the bleeder screw as a helper pushes the clutch pedal down a few inches. Repeat this step until clean brake fluid, free of air, escapes. Tighten the bleeder screw and reinstall the dust cover. Reinstall the air duct and tighten the clamps securely. Test drive the Focus to verify that the clutch functions properly. This article was written by the It Still Works team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information.
To submit your questions or ideas, or to simply learn more about It Still Works, contact us. Step 1 Remove the rubber air duct that connects the throttle body to the air filter housing using a screwdriver to loosen the hose clamps before twisting and pulling the hose. Step 2 Top off the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. Step 3 Slip an 8 mm wrench into the bleeder screw and momentarily open and then close the bleeder screw as a helper pushes the clutch pedal down a few inches.
Tip A special tool is available from Ford to simplify this procedure by forcing fluid into the system through the bleeder screw. This is how Ford technicians perform this task. Warnings Wear safety glasses and work gloves to prevent skin irritation caused by spilled brake fluid.A Ford manual clutch uses a cable or series of rods to actuate the clutch throughout bearing. It does not use a hydraulic slave cylinder. These were replaced with the hydraulic style activation to allow for less pressure of the pedal.
Manual clutches, however, are easier to maintain and allow for much greater adjustments or different dimensions of the clutch. On a hydraulic clutch, simply turning the flywheel can be more than the slave cylinder can adjust for and causes a no-disengagement of the clutch. Start the engine. Most clutch problems can be diagnosed sitting in the car. The clutch consists of a pressure plate, a clutch or friction disc, a flywheel, a throw out bearing and the clutch linkage.
The clutch is sandwiched in between the flywheel and the pressure plate. The pressure plate uses spring pressure to hold the clutch against the flywheel hard enough that it will not slip.
In the center of the pressure plate, there are a series of arms in a circle angling upwards. When the clutch pedal is depressed, it pushes a throw out bearing against these arms, forcing them down toward the front of the car. When these arms are forced down, they allow the pressure plate to move in the opposite direction and release tension on the clutch, releasing it.
The thicker the clutch or the better the condition of the clutch, the more the pedal must be depressed to release the clutch; conversely, the worse the clutch, the less the pedal must be pressed to release it.
Press the pedal all the way to the floor. Lift the pedal slowly and notice where the pedal is before the clutch begins to grab; from a couple inches off the floor to just over the halfway point, the clutch is still good.
If the pedal must be close to all the way out before engagement, then there is not much material left on the clutch and it needs to be replaced as soon as possible. The problem with letting a clutch go too long when it's bad is that the rivets holding the clutch material on will begin to contact the flywheel and create grooves in it.
This requires replacing the flywheel as well as the clutch, effectively doubling the cost. Inspect the adjustment on the linkage before condemning the clutch. Look for the arm coming out of the transmission bellhousing on the left driver's side. The linkage can be seen running alongside the transmission used to push on this arm. This is called the throw out bearing release arm. The throw out bearing is attached with two spring clips to this arm.
It is on a pivot so that if the arm is pushed toward the rear, the throw out bearing is pushed forward. When the release arm is pushed, the throw out bearing is pushed forward and presses on the pressure plate arms. As the arms are moved in toward the flywheel, the pressure plate releases the clutch.
Grab the release arm and move it back and forth.Hi all, I have an 11 plate new model Ford Focus Estate 1. I bought it when it was 6-months old from a Ford main dealer when it had 8, miles on the clock. It now has nearly 10, on the clock. Eventually the pedal never returned on its own, I had to lift the clutch pedal up with my foot. After multiple visits to a dealer they traced the issue to a faulty clutch pedal return spring which once they found a part which took 3-weeks they replaced it under warranty and all was ok for a couple of months.
However now when the car hasn't been used for a few days or if on a motorway for a long period i. The unpredictable nature of the fault can make hill starts tricky, at least before I knew it wouldn't return at all and could drive accordingly! Does anyone have any ideas what might be the issue so that when the garage again say they can't replicate the fault and can't do anything I have a bit more ammunition to hit them with to make them investigate further?
Cant bleed my clutch
It's a safety issue. They haven't fixed the root cause of the problem. Get them to replace the entire clutch pedal release assembly, including a new spring, a warranty issue. Just an update for you; today I had the clutch master cylinder replaced under warranty and this seems to have solved the problem fingers crossed.
It's the first time the Ford dealer had seen this fault on a new Focus but the second in a week after a similar fault on a Ford C-Max. Anyway, many thanks to Sandicliffe of Stapleford, Nottingham for investigating the fault fully with an open mind rather than fobbing me off like other dealers have done.
Good to hear you took it to Sandicliffe, they are superb at getting to the bottom of an issue. They treat every car as their own and I can personally vouch for them from my own experiences when working with them to sort out various car related issues.
This is a well known problem with the new Ford Focus. If you have any more trouble I would suggest going to a different Ford dealership and if you get no satisfaction there contact BBC watchdog because this is a dangerous fault and Ford should be doing a recall.
It is. We have had a whole new master cylinder and pedal assembly fitted. The dealer made noises about us being clumsy, etc, but nevertheless replaced everything. I had a similar experience when driving a Ford Focus Econetic 1. The sales guy insisted there was nothing wrong with it and they were all like that, staggering considering it was a Ford Direct car.
Like I've only driven loads of Fiesta's and no they are not all like that, only this one is like that and it's faulty. Seems like Ford have an issue to resolve on more than one of their models. Unfortunately after thinking the fault was now fixed as after the master cylinder was replaced all seemed good and the clutch acted as normal the same fault has returned and so the car is booked in again next week for the third time! This is getting very annoying now! Check if they fitted a reconditioned master cylinder instead of a new one, although they should have fitted a new one under warranty.
Also it's not unknown for the same issue or a different issue to occur when a component has been fitted due to a similar fault in the replacement component, it's happened with my Focus. Ask them why is there air in the clutch and brake systems and how is it getting there?
Something is seriously amiss for that to happen. If Lombard is on the V5 then you've probably bought an ex AA driving school car. The Ford Direct dealerships are awash with them.
Not sure why it isn't flowing - would someone be able to upload a video of how they did it? Joined Apr 13, Joined Mar 25, LMStone said:. That's my article, I wrote a while back. It does need to come out quite a bit. Last i remember it was like full turns. I've bleed my clutch 4 times using the process I wrote up, haven't had any issues.
I was told from a ford master tech, not to pressurize over 15psi, but to be above 10psi. Joined Dec 28, Are you completely against trying to manually bleed the clutch? I've found it the most effective way in the past on some vehicles, but I have not done it to an ST yet although it was a '15 Focus SE. If you can get an assistant all you have to do is have them pump the clutch times and hold it down. Then try loosening the bleeder screw on the slave while they hold it down and see if anything comes out.
Before having the clutch pedal released again after that make sure you close the bleeder.